The Scent of a Spaniard

Contrary to the Paris metro, the Madrid metro doesn´t reek of body odor. In fact, the majority of Spaniards, in my exprerience, smell really fantastic. They wear scented deodorants and/or cologne or perfume, and as you´re walking down the street you can actually smell a Spaniard before you can see them. I know that sounds unpleasant, but it really isn´t. They don´t wear horrible cheap perfume or cologne...the stuff that makes you gag and want to run away. They wear quality stuff, and even though you can smell them yards away, they smell so good that I want to be enveloped by their scent and I breathe in deeply through my nose to drink it in.

Was awakened today by a phone call from one of my agencies (the one I really like). Figured it was probably around 10 or 10:30am, but when I hung up and looked at the time it was 11:40am. Holy cow! I probably would've kept sleep at least until noon if not for the phone call. Was feeling like a lazy slug so I got to work right away on redesigning the online course I'm teaching for COCC this fall. Am proud to say I actually FINISHED it this afternoon and it's now up & running. Now feel like productive superstar rather than lazy slug, though I have barely left my bed all day. Woo hoo!

If I had gotten up earlier I would have gone down to the market and bought eggs and potatoes, and I would be making a tortilla española at this very moment. Did not work out that way, however, so I´ve had to make due with some toast and peanut butter (yes, we have actually found peanut butter in Spain) until the mercado opens again at 5pm. (Closes for siesta, you see.) In the meantime I need to do some lesson planning for next week´s classes and add to my deck of "cards" I´m building for phonetics gin-rummy.

Tonight the girls and I are going over to a fellow TtMadrid alum´s house for dinner and then to her husband´s office for a party that will supposedly last until 6am. Am looking forward to being at a private party rather than going out to some smokey bar or club for entertainment.

Highlights of my day so far:
1. Lovely cool weather continues. Am sitting in bed wearing jeans, shirt, sweater, and scarf! =*)
2. Figured out how to change my keyboard settings to get Spanish letters! Now just need to figure out where everything is. Had a helluva time making that smiley face after #1 & finally had to change it back to American keyboard in order to make it.

highlights of my day

1. Lunch at Valpan in Atocha. Toasted croissant with strawberry jam and a cafe con leche. Yum!! Rock in English playing over the speakers. Even the crappy songs make me feel sentimental, and then as I'm leaving they play one of my favorites: "Invincible" by OK Go. Valpan must have satellite radio. I hear "Invincible" almost every time I go there. Is fantastic!

2. Boys in sweaters. Why is that so attractive? Maybe because boys don't usually wear sweaters. They might wear a sweatshirt or a coat over their t-shirt, but usually not a sweater. Love love love the sweater. Especially if it is navy blue or brown.

3. Tonight: making tacos and watching BBC's The Office with the roommates. Love tacos, love The Office. Life is grand.

sweater song

Hooray! I got to wear a sweater today ALL DAY LONG!!! Today was finally cool enough for me: in the low 70's. Kez, my roommate from Australia, was complaining the whole day, threatening to freeze her butt off. HAH! Today, after a mere couple of hours of 60 degree weather, Kez actually said, "I can't wait for summer!" Well, it takes all kinds. And I'm the kind that loves fall and cool, crisp air. Bring it on!

P.S. I found out today that the agency gave me the wrong sheet yesterday and I consequently asked for the wrong person when I got to my teaching gig. Explains the cancellation and "come back Thursday." Am now officially annoyed with the agency. Again.

P.P.S. I seem to be collecting glasses on the nightstand. One with a shallow pool of water at the bottom, one that used to have Diet Coke in it, one with the dregs of some English breakfast tea, and the newest glass contains some yummy red wine. Fall and yummy red wine. Does it get any better?

slightly annoyed

So I show up to my class today (after having spent about an hour at the agency that set the class up for me) only to find out that today's class had been cancelled. The receptionist calls up to the client and the client says she sent an email to my agency cancelling the class and that I should come back on Thursday. First of all, as far as I know this is a Tuesday-only class, which sucks to begin with, but then you can't expect to be able to reschedule on Thursdays willy-nilly. If you want two timeslots a week, pay for them is what I say. If she cancels again on Thursday I'm giving up the class. It's already a pain in my ass because it's only one hour a week during lunchtime on Tuesdays (when I could EASILY find a Tues/Thurs class for an hour or even an hour and a half each day and be making more money), and it's also clear on the other side of Madrid so I'm already traveling twice as long as the class lasts. Matters made worse by the fact that I hadn't eaten lunch and I was seriously hungrumpy. So came home again and ate leftovers and am having a little glass of wine (as the Spanish do) before I head out to do some grocery shopping.

Getting home from work at 9pm doesn't seem nearly as bad when everyone in your 'hood is also out wandering around in the streets and hanging out on the park benches. Having other people around makes me feel like the evening isn't even close to over. Whereas if I got home at 9pm in the States I would feel like a workaholic with no life.

Today I was supposed to start one new class, but I started two. The second student for the class I'd already started came today, and it turns out he's a different level from the first student so he's going to need his own class. This would be a good thing IF I get to keep him as a student and add another couple hours onto my schedule. But it would be a bad thing if it meant I had to give up either him or the other one as a student. Hopefully we can make it work so I get to keep them both. The other class I started was an evening class (6-8pm) with two advanced students. We had fun and they really felt like they learned something, so I left on a high from that one. I start another class tomorrow...a one-on-one with a female director of some company way up in the north of Madrid. About as north as you can go and still be in Zone A. Hopefully it will be worth it (i.e. I will like the client).

los precios

For those of you who are interested in what things cost (in Euro) over here at the moment, here's a brief list:
0.65E can of Mahou beer from the vending machine at work
0.80E can of Coca Cola from the convenience store
1.20E cafe con leche at a bar or cafe
1.30-1.50E 8 oz. glass of beer or 6 oz. glass of wine at a bar
1.80-2E a glass of Coca Cola at a bar
2.25E cafe con leche and a pastry at Valpan pasteleria
2.65E a red pepper and five small tomatoes on the vine
3.65E cafe con leche, 1/2 crab salad sandwich and a can of Coca Cola Light at Valpan pasteleria
5-8E a mixed drink (rum & Coke, for example) at a bar
12-15E a very cute blouse (not t-shirt) at Zara or H&M
25E a pair of nice high-heeled shoes
40E a monthly transportation pass that includes unlimited metro, cercanias and bus rides within Zone A
50E a fashionable winter peacoat at Zara
186,000E a small one-bedroom flat in my neighborhood

This morning I could really go for a bagel with cream cheese. And some coffee I could make at home that actually tastes good. I don't really like the coffee that our coffee pot makes. The beans are okay, but the pot makes sludge. Yuck.

Last night we had some people over for a housewarming party. (Pictures available on Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=15136&l=481d7&id=595126014.) Everyone got along well and seemed to enjoy themselves, and nothing got broken and no cops showed up, so I think we can call it a success.

I've noticed that when I'm not busy with work or social engagements or similar I tend to get a little depressed. I think that's why I'm so homesick at the moment; I've only worked four hours in the last two weeks and I've been trying to stay at home in order to kill my cold, so I haven't really been doing much of anything for days on end. I think I need to be busy in order to feel productive and like my life has some meaning. Am therefore very much looking forward to having more classes starting up this week. Will be even better when the rest of my classes start first week of October.

Have finally rescheduled the trip to Nottingham I didn't take earlier this month because I was sick. Am glad to have a trip to look forward to as well. On top of not having much work these past couple of weeks I wasn't working toward any of my goals either, so that added to the sense of purposelessness. But knowing I am traveling in November helps, and I've also started finding people on the Internet with whom I can do conversation exchange so I can work on my Spanish. I am optimistic that I will be much more content starting this next week.

homesick

I'm feeling homesick again today. Especially for Portland and all its good food. My digestive system has been revolting against all food and drink for the last couple of days and I could really go for something familiar. Like a grilled cheese sandwich and a bowl of cream of tomato soup. Or a baked potato with cottage cheese. Alas, they don't have the same dairy products here that I've become accustomed to. I haven't found any yellow cheddar or cottage cheese. No crumbed feta either. I do so miss my dairy. You can only eat so much queso manchego. I miss having a dryer too. My clothes all sag off my body because I don't have a dryer to shrink them back up for me after washing. I guess I just miss the lifestyle in general. And the weather. It's getting cooler here, but it's not cool enough for me yet. And it doesn't rain nearly enough. Summary: if I had to make a decision today about whether to come back to Madrid for another year, I'd say no. We'll see how I feel next week.

lazy bum

I have been incredibly lazy today. Woke up at 9:30, turned over and did some business on the Internet without getting out of bed, finally got up and took a shower around noon, got dressed in order to go grocery shopping but then realized I wouldn't need groceries for another couple of days so went back to my bed and the computer. Have pretty much been here all day with the exception of the shower and finding something to eat for lunch. Since I don't teach today I have little incentive to get moving.

At 7pm tonight I'm meeting another Facebook friend (for the first time in person) in front of the KFC at Atocha. Yes, they have KFC here, and you can find both McDonald's and Burger King within a block of it. I haven't eaten at any of them since arriving in Spain, though I did check the KFC menu to see if they had buffalo wings. No go. I did eat lunch at Pizza Hut one day during the course. It was pretty good. Pizza Hut isn't really my bag in the U.S., but it's not bad here. Anyway, am meeting this friend who has just spent a year teaching Spanish as a foreign language in the U.K. I imagine we'll have much to talk about. Plus she seems really nice. Then, depending on what time we say goodnight, I might go have dinner with one of my friends from the course and some of his friends at an Indian restaurant. I'm allergic to Indian curry, but I can at least have some saffron rice and garlic nan. (Or is it naan?) Do so love the garlic na(a)n.

My evening clases start next week, for which I am grateful. I've been enjoying the time off, but I'm also looking forward to having a fuller schedule of classes. Is possible my Tues/Thu lunchtime class will also be starting next week, but I'm not sure yet. It may not start until October. And I've finally set up a private class for myself, so starting Oct. 2 I'll be teaching a 13 yo girl general English for an hour a week. I was hesitant to take a class with a kid, but it's only for an hour a week and it might be nice to have some general English classes in the mix.

What else? Found out the morning classes I'd agreed to take with one agency are a 2-hour commute one way, so I had to go in & break the news that I wouldn't be taking them after all. I would've had to get on the train at 6am to get there in time, and then I wouldn't be back until noon. No thank you. Was surprised at the reaction I got: no arguing or guilt-tripping; just acceptance. I asked whether they could find me some classes closer to the center a couple mornings a week instead, and they said no problem. Goodie.

Kez made green Thai curry last night. Was good, but a little too hot for me (i.e. tastebuds went on strike after three bites). Think I will make up my own plate from now on & put more rice and less sauce. She said in her book it was "mild." Holy cow! The girl likes her spice. Have promised to make pasta with a cream sauce soon, as pastas w/ cream sauces are my specialty.

On "Freaky Brit"

His name is actually John something-or-other, and he is from England. He earned his nickname the first time he & Shannon met, but I am not at libery to say how he earned it. We only call him Freaky Brit amongst ourselves to distinguish him from the other John we know, but Freaky does know about his nickname. He's become a weekend regular, trekking with us to museums or Retiro Park and other cultural experiences. Freaky and I are both dominant personalities and we haven't figured out each other's senses of humor yet, so we've had a rough beginning, but I'm making an effort to like him and I think he's doing the same. We did bond over our love of BBC's The Office last weekend. (Brilliant, brilliant show!) But he's very much into history and politics, which I know absolutely nothing about, so it's hard for us to find common ground for conversation. He's a nice enough guy...but I'm withholding final judgment until I've known him for at least a couple more months.

Strange Coincidence

This morning I happened to look at the tag on my bath towel...the one I bought at the Chinese shop...and the label is Hojas de Hierba which translates to Leaves of Grass and is the name of the Walt Whitman book I brought to Spain with me. Interesting.

Wireless Internet in the house!

YAY! HOORAY! WE NOW HAVE WIRELESS INTERNET IN THE HOUSE! Thanks to the landlords' son, the computer genius. I went out this afternoon to try to find a supermarket within walking distance and when I came home he'd been here and fixed everything! I asked Kezzo if she'd given him lots of kisses and invited him over for dinner and drinks and sex, but somehow it had slipped her mind. She did say thank you a lot though, so that's something.

I've also just posted some more pictures of life in Madrid to my Facebook. You can access them by cutting and pasting the following link: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=14644&l=fdc1d&id=595126014

P.S. The pack of cigarettes in the above photo belonged to my ex-roommate, Laura. For the record, I have not taken up smoking again.

INTERNET IS ON!!!

Yay! We finally have Internet at home!

Here's the story: the landlords got fed up with waiting for the company to send someone out to fix our Internet, so they said forget it to the first company and called in Telefonica, who sent someone out this afternoon to set it up for us. When I got home this afternoon a little after 4pm, all three of them (the landlords and the technician) were standing in the living room. In the next few minutes, the modem was plugged in and switched on. The technician said (in Spanish of course), "You should have Internet now." So I unpacked my computer and switched it on, but the only wireless networks available all belonged to the neighbors. I tried turning AirPort off & on several times, but no change. Then the technician said, "What kind of computer is that?" "A Mac," I answered. And he reached over and pushed the power button on my computer and shut the lid. "What are you doing??" I could NOT BELIEVE he had just touched my computer! That he'd tried to shut it down without following the shut down procedures! "It's not gonna work with a Mac," he said. A "conversation" ensued wherein I insisted that my computer picks up all kinds of networks and that it must be the router and he insisted that the router was fine and my computer was the problem. He even called home base and somebody there confirmed that their service would not work with a Mac even if I used an ethernet cable. I was almost in tears (so much trouble and waiting for what?) but I still suspected that the router wasn't working properly. So I went and got Shannon's computer out of her room and booted it up. Lo and behold, no new network connections showed up there, either. HAH!! I plugged one end of the ethernet cable into the router and the other into my computer and voila! I had Internet. DOUBLE HAH! But of course the technician left still swearing up & down that there's nothing wrong with the router. Bastard. So the landlords are calling in their son for us AGAIN to see if he can get the wireless part to work. If not, we'll just buy a couple more ethernet cables & call it good. Better wired Internet than no Internet.

Kind of funny though. With the first company we had a wireless network but no Internet, and now we have Internet but no wireless. Ah, Spain.

mostly sunny

First I want to apologize to all of you who have written me emails and I still haven´t gotten back to you personally. It´s hard to get back to everyone when I´m working out of locutorios and have to pay for every minute I´m online, but I promise I´ll be much better about staying in touch once we get Internet at home.

Which brings me to the fact that WE STILL DO NOT HAVE INTERNET AT HOME! GRR!!! I know that the landlords are doing what they can to make it happen in a timely manner, but I don´t think they understand how essential it is for me to have Internet in the house. Maybe if they did they could put some additional pressure on the company to come back out and fix our service. I´m supposed to be teaching this online class as of Oct. 1 and there´s no way I can set it up at a locutorio because all the docs are on my own computer. So you see it really is essential. Not to mention the fact that the Internet is important for our TEFL work as well.

Brings me to my second point: I have started saying "as well" instead of "also" or "too" in all cases. I think it comes from hanging out with speakers of other Englishes. It might be cute or it might just be annoying. I haven´t decided yet.

I have more to say but have to cut this short because I´m meeting up with the girls and Freaky Brit (a story for another time) to go have lunch. Hasta luego.

Exchanges

Today I went in to one of my agencies to do some photocopying and to ask about next week's schedule. While there I finally met the boss-man, whose name I didn't understand and couldn't pronounce (is a weird British name). After asking me which companies I was teaching and how many hours I had with them, he paused, looked straight into my eyes and asked, "Are you a good teacher?" I shrugged, looked back and him and said, "Yeah," with absolute certainty.

Earlier in the day I was walking from my house to the Cercanias station and a youngish guy with a dolly full of (concrete mix???) comes careening around the corner, so I jump out of his way and he says (in Spanish), "What are you afraid of, good-looking?" He was shortly followed by an older Spanish man in his 60's who stopped and asked me if I wanted a cigarette. "No!" I said, surprised. "No? You don't want one?" He was obviously fucking with me, but he feigned surprise. The younger guy was doubled over laughing at this point. "No! I mean, no thank you," and I walked on.

Earlier still, I called up the elevator as I was leaving the piso. When it arrived it was mostly taken up with an elderly man (80's? 90's?) and his rolly-walker. This was surprising to me, since we live on the top floor and he didn't seem to be getting out. "Oh! Excuse me!" I said. "Get in, get in," he said kindly. "Are you going down?" I asked. He was. We had a brief conversation about which apartment I was in and who I "belonged" to. I explained we were three girls renting a flat from the man who owns the shoe repair store. "Well you are extremely good-looking," he said as we exited on the bottom floor. I held the door open for him. "That you find a nice boyfriend who treats you well and deserves you," he finished. "Uh, thank you," I said.

You can't make this shit up.

it begins

Had an interview today with an agency who wanted to give me something like fifteen hours. I wanted to take six, but I took ten. I bit the bullet and accepted classes a couple mornings a week. Could be worse. So now I have 17 hours of teaching a week lined up, one class starts tomorrow(!!) and others don´t start until October. Should be interesting. I also have leads on three possible private classes that I could work in if I wanted to. And I have messages from two or three other agencies who want to give me hours. Point being: there is absolutely no shortage of work here. In fact the danger is in taking too many hours and running myself ragged.

On the home front: still no Internet. GRRRRR!!! Not even a phone call about it! Bastards. My life is going to be made very difficult if I don´t have home access to Internet very soon. But we did get a telephone...now we just need to figure out what our phone number is. Hmm. Things are going well with the roommates. We get along and Kezzo is going to make Thai food for us tonight. Yum yum! Very much looking forward to that. Oh! And my rash has gone away! Finally! Am still sick with cold though. Poop.

Had coffee date with nice Italian Facebook friend last night. Talked movies, music, politics, economics, etc. Embarassed myself by knowing much less about American politics than he knows. Is very sad that I´m not even clear on when the presidential election is. Was hoping it was this November but he finally convinced me it´s next November. When asked, ¨Who´s the Democratic candidate then?¨ I answered, ¨Clinton & Obama?¨ and he said, ¨But that´s two people!¨ Oh yeah. Hm. Will crawl back into my hole of ignorance now. Also embarassing that 80% of Italians vote, and they can´t even vote by mail.

too good to be true

Well, the Internet guy came yesterday, before noon even, and did indeed drill holes through walls and thread cords, etc. etc. And when he left he said it would take a couple hours for the Internet to start working...but seven hours later it was still not working. So called the landlords and asked them to call the Internet company, so they sent over their computer programmer son, A., who fiddled around for a while before calling the Internet company, but of course by that time it was too late to do anything about it (am only slightly annoyed that the company was not called in the first place), and now it looks like we have to wait until Monday for someone to come around again to try to fix the connection. Poop. But at least we are a little closer than we were before.

The rash starts to recede and then it comes back and then goes away and so on and so forth. I finally bought some Benadryl at a pharmacy yesterday, and it knocked me out from 8pm last night until about 10am this morning. Took another today and am feeling a little fuzzy headed, but the rash is going away again. And the cold is only bad in the mornings when I start coughing. Otherwise I feel almost normal. Just a little weak and a tiny bit more congestion than is normal.

Overall am feeling better (emotionally/mentally) because I now have confirmed hours with a company and have been promised second interviews in the coming week which I expect to result in a few more hours. And I´ve also received confirmation from COCC that the online course is on this fall, so I´m looking forward to that work as well.

Now am off to invite the landlords over for lunch or dinner next Friday and then to make lunch for myself.

health, etc. update

Think I have figured out the source of my rash: the new towel I bought and didn't wash before using. I used it yesterday and the rash spread to my legs. I didn't use it today and my rash is starting to disappear. The cold is still here, but am feeling much better. There is less coughing and mucus (TMI?).

Have received an email from one of the agencies saying they'll definitely call me for a second interview. Good news.

Am in the school today to use the Internet and photocopy machine...but got great news this morning from the landlords: we will have phone and Internet in our flat TOMORROW!!! So fantastic!!! I just know the three of us will be permanently glued to our computers and chatting with each other via messenger even though we are all in the same room. Very geeky.

The girls & I are going out to dinner with a couple guys from the school tonight at the Mexican place we ate at last Friday. Yummy yummy food!

very, very sad

On top of the cold I was already fighting, I suddenly broke out into some weird rash last night. ¨Bugger!¨ as the Brits and Ozzies would have it. In the end I had to make the difficult decision to postpone my trip to England. My immune system is clearly struggling as it is, and I didn´t want to make things worse by staying up all night in an airport and then changing climates yet again. Even if I do love the rainy climate. Obviously I am very disappointed, not to mention out about $150, but I believe I made the right decision.

My theory on the rash is that it´s dust mite related (I am allergic) and hasn´t gone away because a) I haven´t had time or detergent to wash anything, and b) my immune system was already busy with this blasted cold. Plan to go to the pharmacy tomorrow if the rash still hasn´t gone away. Maybe they can give me Benedryl or similar.

Slept today until 1:30pm and have been taking it easy with the exception of a trip to the grocery store. Look out, clothes, here comes a washing!! Yes, well, obviously need some more sleep.

the piso and barrio

I´m sorry I can´t post any pictures yet, but I don´t have Internet at home. However, the landlords are working on that and I think they estimated only a week or two until we have it. And it will be wireless!!! 4MB!!! Obviously will be wonderful when that happens.

The apartment is clean, a little small but fine for three people. The girls have given me the largest of the three bedrooms (with double bed!) to start in appreciation for my translation services. Love the girls! We still haven´t gone grocery shopping for all the necessities, but I´m hoping they will be able to do that while I´m gone in England. Would love to be able to wash clothes when I come home.

Today we had interviews at the Estrecho school. I didn´t leave with any confirmed hours, but I do have appointments to go in & see at least two of the agencies next week with the idea of putting together a schedule then. Am glad I don´t have to start teaching next week, as that would be a little stressful to come back from England and have to teach the next day.

Anyway, things are generally fine. The cold seems to be starting to loosen up a bit. When I woke up from my nap today I didn´t start coughing right away, which is a good sign. Am looking forward to going to Nottingham and especially meeting Sam´s parents, about whom he has some really amazing stories. Will share some of them with you as the week goes on. I will have Internet access at his parents´ house, so feel free to email!

Love and miss you all.

sunday

Sam arrived a little early and all in one piece. I barely made it to the gate in time, but luckily I was there when he came out from customs. We just hung out this afternoon, went to the bontanical gardens, visited the toilets at Burger King where you need a combination to get in and the combo for the women's is 666(!).

Am moving half my stuff to the new apartment this afternoon...am not strong enough to take it all today but will return for the rest tomorrow. We do not yet have Internet in the new house, so my entries may be spotty for the next couple of weeks.

Crush update: H. called yesterday afternoon to say he wouldn't be able to make it to our meeting but that his father would be there. Have completely despaired of marrying H. and having lots of sex and babies. His younger brother is cute though... ;*)

New Apartment!!

We now have an apartment!!! A Madrid address! We are celebrating by making dinner and sharing a bottle of wine in the girls' old apartment. We'll move in to the new one tomrrow. Yay!

pictures & plans

The graduation dinner last night was pretty good. We went to a Mexican restaurant in Tribunal and had nachos and then chicken in various sauces with flour tortillas. I was sad I wasn't well enough to try the margaritas, but then again they were blended so no big loss. By the end of the second course I was feeling pretty tired again, so I was the first to leave. Click on this link to see some pictures of my classmates and our graduation dinner: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=12356&l=148b0&id=595126014

This evening the girls & I head back out to Las Aguilas to sign the rental contract and to pay rent and deposits. I'm very much hoping we'll be able to move into the apartment Sunday or Monday. It'll also be interesting to see H. again and find out whether he's as handsome as I remember. ;*)

On Sunday my friend Sam is flying in from England to spend a few days in Madrid. Am hoping my little cold will not prevent us from having the full Madrid experience. We shall see. Am also hoping to go observe a karate class on Sunday night. Then on Tuesday the directors of TtMadrid have arranged interviews for us with a bunch of agencies and language schools. After Tuesday I should have some hours set up for mid/late September. Then on Wednesday I fly back to England with Sam to spend some time in Nottingham, where he's from. Hooray! He's promised to introduce me to Robin Hood & the gang, and we'll go storm Nottingham castle. Can't wait!

Today I'm just taking it easy, drinking lots of orange juice, trying to get my head organized, packing up my stuff in preparation for the move to our new piso.

Oh yes, a quick update on the crush. We've been in contact because of apartment stuff, but at the end of one of H.'s emails he asked me how much I'd charge for weekly English lessons. Hmm... Was excited and also not trying to read too much into it, but then on the phone last night he said he was just kidding. Damn. Or was he? Will be interesting to see him today.