28 November 2007

Paris vs. Madrid


I will say that Madrid's metro system is much newer, cleaner and brighter than Paris's. The cars on the metro trains are more spacious too. But Madrid's underground is heated (or at least it is hot), which may sound good until you realize that many people get sick in the winter because they're going from freezing cold outside to too hot inside. You have to put on scarf and coat and hat and gloves to walk to the metro, and then you have to take them all off when you get on the train and then you stand there with sweat dripping down your back, and of course the sweat cools almost instantly when you step outside and then you have to put all your acoutrements back on... It's a vicious cycle. The Paris metro is pretty much the same temperature as the outdoors, which means you keep all your clothes on and aren't subjected to such extreme temperature changes throughout the day.

The thing that really bugged me about Paris was that I found it impossible to take a picture that could capture the grandeur and beauty of the city. I guess you could say that Paris isn't very photogenic. Even though Madrid is uglier overall (in my opinion), it's still possible to take beautiful pictures. It would take me days, perhaps even weeks, to get the hang of it in Paris. Or maybe it's not possible at all.

One of the realizations I'm coming to about Madrid (and possibly Spain in general though at this point I'm not prepared to go that far) is that the culture is based on blue-collar culture. The food is made from every part of the animal except the good parts, and the cheapest ingredients, such as potatoes, tomatoes and eggs, are the staples of the madrileño diet. Everyone from the 5 year old child to the 90 year old grandmother swears constantly. They smoke everywhere and throw their trash and cigarette butts onto the café floors. For fun people drink cheap beer in their local bars or they visit their family's village on the weekends. They stand around on street corners or in cafés gossiping about their neighbors and arguing politics. It's a culture that values family and friendship and enjoying the present moment while respecting traditions of the past. They don't care much for art or philosophy. Madrid is not a city of innovators; if it isn't broken, they don't fix it. And sometimes they don't fix it even when it is broken if they decide they can get along well enough without it. While I admit that I could stand to learn how to better enjoy a present moment, drinking cheap beer while eating leftover parts of the pig and gossiping about neighbors is not my idea of a good time.

Paris, on the other hand, seems to me more concerned with higher culture. There is something elegant about Paris and its people. They seem to care more about aesthetics, both on the street and in their restaurants. For fun people go out to dinner in clean, well-decorated restaurants or stroll along the river looking at used books or outdoor photography exhibits. They hold dinner parties and stay up talking until 4am. Paris is saturated with creative energy. Historically, the French have been at the forefront of art, fashion and intellectual movements. And whereas madrileños are proud of their cuisine without taking pride in it, the French have turned food into an art form.

In a way it's slightly unfair for me to try to compare Madrid and Paris because I have never lived in Paris. I'm very aware that my observations of Paris may be tainted by a romantic view, and there are many aspects of both cultures about which I am ignorant, but I've stated what I believe to be true. In the end it just boils down to the fact that I am more comfortable in Paris because its culture (or what I perceive to be its culture) is in better alignment with my values and interests than Madrid's is.

6 comments:

  1. i appreciate this last blog entry of yours, and having lived in both madrid and paris i agree with your ideas regarding aesthetics and high vs low culture; but yet...I believe that you are still highly reticent to write with complete honesty about your feelings regarding madrid. it seems almost as though your bogged down by political correctness which is impeding you to give us the full-frontal on your views about the spanish capital.
    however, i do have to disagree with you on your assesment of spaniards' laid back nature. there is nothing blasé about castillian culture. it's agressively in your face: they live by the love-it-or-leave-it credo, and have been brainwashed by their propagandistic media outlets to believe everything they do and have is the best the world has to offer. this pathologically narcissistic self image is applicable to all things spanish, and their supreme confidence in defending/promoting everything of national origin, (including their gastronomy) if effective to the point of actually convincing the world of its "undisputable" quality. for instance, duping people into believing paella is actually a yummy dish, or that ferran adriàs' molecular gastronomy supercedes french nouvelle cuisine.

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  2. lol! I admit that I am puzzled by Spandiards' passionate insistence that their food is the best in the world. Even more confusing: one of my students added that it is the best because it is so healthy. What?! Have they failed to notice that they fry absolutely everything and rarely eat vegetables other than potatoes or tomatoes? It must be an unexamined belief. But Americans too are known for believing "everything they do and have is the best the world has to offer."

    What you call political correctness I call a desire to be fair and to remain open-minded as long as possible. I didn´t come to Spain to dis it; I came here to step out of my comfort zone and try to understand and appreciate the culture.

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  3. You don't have a clue of what you're talking about. That student of yours was speaking about the traditional Mediterranean diet, which is one of the healthiest in the world, consisting mainly of Paris and vegetables. Of course the modern western way of life has had its impact in Spain just as it has in the rest of the European countries + the US, but you're practically saying all Spaniards eat like that "Super Size Me" guy, which is plainly false. Not everybody follows the Mediterranean diet, and not everyone eats burgers every day.
    Regarding the Paris vs. Madrid issue, Paris is the most unfriendly place in France. As an Spanish-French raised in Carcassonne (my mother is from Donostia in Spain and my father is from Reims in France) I have to say Paris lacks the friendliness of south eastern France that is characteristic to cities like Marseille, and it is just as grand as Madrid (both were the capitals of big empires some centuries ago), while I find Madrid to be much more warmer and welcoming than Paris. Madrid's city centre is simply stunning, being a medley of different building styles, and it is much more compact than Paris', which means it is much more accessible. Madrid is also cheaper and its nightlife is way better than that of Paris. The only drawback about Madrid is possibly its how hot it gets in summer. Summarizing, I think Madrid easily beats Paris... It would be interesting to compare Madrid to another Mediterranean city like Rome, Milan or Marseille, although I haven't lived there so I couldn't say.

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  4. *consisting mainly of legumes and vegetables.
    Typo.

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  5. *is possibly how hot it gets in summer
    Another typo.

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  6. Oh, and Sean, btw, of course paella is a CASTILIAN dish isn't it? That proves you know very little about Spain. And yes, it is very yummy, not the best thing ever, but yummy nonetheless. Your comment shows some kind of prejudice towards all things Spanish.

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